Darjeeling owes’ its grandeur to its natural
beauty, its clean fresh mountain air and above all, the smiling resilient
people for whom it is a home. Known for its natural splendor, Darjeeling’s
best gift to its’ visitors is the dawn of a new day. The mountains
awaken first with a tentative peeking of the sun. A steep ride, five
kilometers from Ghoom, or an invigorating walk up a steep incline, leads sun
worshippers to Tiger Hill. The air is chilly with darkness and damp. To the
east, a dull orange sun emerged painting the sky with brilliant strokes of
magenta, gold, orange and fuchsia. The snow capped Everest, Kabru,
Kanchenjunga, Jannu and other peaks slowly emerge from slumber to start a
new day. The sun worshippers gasp at the magnificent sight. As the fog lifts
in the slowly penetrating sun, the town gradually comes alive. Amidst
brewing of tea, the sing-song Gorkhali which is the local dialect, rises and
falls like music.
WEATHER OF ALMORA The
best time to visit Darjeeling is from March-May or September-November. The
rains which start by May end are heavy downpours making living conditions
cold and dreary. In winter there is a drastic fall in temperature from the
summer’s 15 to 25 degrees centigrade to 2 to 10 degrees in winter.
ETHNICITY AND FOOD HABITS The
people of the region – Darjeeling, Kalimpong and Mirik – consist
of the Gurungs from Western Nepal, other Gurkhas races from eastern Nepal,
Bhutias and Lepchas from Sikkim and Dukpas from Bhutan. People from the
plains have also settled here. The local fare is rice and meat curry and
momos which are steamed dumplings, and of course, chow, the locally made
noodles. This generally accompanied by chhang, a locally brewed wine made
from millet or the jaad which is made from fermented rice. The Gurkhas are
staunch Hindus and celebrate all Hindu festivals with equal dedication. But
Dussehra is the most popular Gurkha festival.
DAARJEELING
SIGHTSEEING No visit to Darjeeling is complete without a visit to
Ghoom which is 6 km away from the main town. The hillock is dominated by the
famous Yiga Choeling Monastery which has 15 images of the Maitreya Buddha.
Belonging to the yellow hat sect, the monastery contains many ancient palm
leaf and paper manuscripts in Tibetan script. The Museum of Natural History
is where one can see a fine collection of Himalayan animals, reptiles, birds
and insects. If flora is what one enjoys, then Llyod Botanic Garden is the
place of interest. It has a marvelous collection of alpine flora and
orchids.
Padmaja Naidu Himalayan Zoological Park is the
only center in India for the breeding of the rare snow leopard. The Ussurian
tigers and the Himalayan black bear are also among its attractions.
Neighboring the zoo is the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute established in
1954 by the then Prime Minister, Jawaharlal Nehru, in the wake of the
conquest of Everest. Tenzing Norgay was its first Director and Advisor till
his demise. A kilometer from the zoo is the Darjeeling-Rangit Valley
ropeway. Considered the longest in Asia, it is a thrilling ride with
splendid views. If one is looking for souvenirs, then the Tibetan Refugee
Self Help Center. It produces excellent Tibetan crafts like carpets, wood
and leather work. Established in 1959 after the Dalai Lama and his followers
fled Tibet, it is a haven for ethnic Tibetan art.
PLACES
AROUND DARJEELING KALIMPONGAcross the river, Teesta lies
lush Kalimpong. The road weaves lazily up a steep incline to suddenly open
up to an unexpected panorama. The first sight to greet the eye is the
steeple of the Mac Farlane Church. Once the headquarters of a Bhutanese
Governor, the word kalim means king’s minister and pong, the
stronghold. It is also called Kalimpong or the black spur by the locals.
However, the meaning that is popularly accepted is the Lepcha translation of
the name which is “the ridge where we play” as the local tribesmen
used to organize field sports here. At an altitude of 1250 meters, it has an
area odd just 3.5 square miles with an approximate population of 40,000. Its
rolling meadows are as yet untouched by tourism.
Prominent
amongst the places of interest is a school, Dr. Graham’s Homes which
was founded by Dr. John Anderson Grahman in 1900. This has been built on the
slopes of Delo Hill, three kilometers from the town. For a bird’s eye
view of the picturesque place, one has to go to Durpin Dara, an observatory
point atop a hill from where one can get an awe-inspiring view of the mighty
Himalayan ranges. Numerous monasteries dot the area among which the Pedong
monastery and Thongsha Gompa are the oldest. Another monastery of interest
is the Tharpa Choling Monastery constructed in 1937 by the Yellow Hat sect
which is situated at Tirpai Hill at a distance of two kilometers from town.
About 4 km from town towards Teesta is located Kalimpong’s
famous Swiss Welfare Dairy. It was set up many years ago by a Swiss
missionary, father Andrea Butty. Cheese, butter and other dairy products of
this center are in great demand and the quality is comparable to the finest
that is imported. The visit to Kalimpong won’t be complete unless one
spends several hours at the two bazaars. One on the main road, the other
near 10th mile. It is a unique experience to see villagers turning up in
their local costume at the bazaar on weekly market days to sell their farm
products.
MIRIK
Set in idyllic surroundings, Mirik is the place for those seeking
peace and tranquility. At an altitude of 1967 meters, the climate is cool
and temperate. The Sumendu Lake at the bottom of Mirik Spur is the most
dominating feature reflecting the magnificence of the eastern Himalayas. The
lake is 1.2 kilometers long and is fed by perennial streams. Riding on the
colorful boats or crossing the lake over an artistic bridge, leads one to a
charming path through forests on the other side. Fishing is a popular past
time here.
Mirik is also almost completely surrounded by
some of the best tea gardens of the region. It is also the largest producer
of oranges in West Bengal. The orchards are on a spur two kilometers from
Mirik. Tourist cottage constructed from locally available material have been
constructed in the dense forest and provide all modern facilities for a
comfortable sojourn. The DGHC Tourism (Tourism Deptt. of the Darjeeling
Gurkha Hill Council) organizes conducted luxury coach tours from Darjeeling
to Mirik and back on the same day during the tourist season.
WHERE
TO GO SHOPPING Darjeeling’s traditional promenade, the
Chow Rasta, bustles with the increasing tourist influx and is the throbbing
heart of Darjeeling with restaurants and shops lining the way. It has famous
eating joints, known especially for milk shakes, pastries and scrumptious
patties. At certain studios one can buy the most fascinating photographs of
the snow capped mountains that surround Darjeeling, and portraits of locals
in traditional attire are souvenirs worth buying. Walking down a countless
flight of steps, past colorful vendors, one will come to the lower bazaar.
It is a more traditional and lively bazaar filled with a jostling melee of
people.
HOW TO REACH There are
flights from Calcutta to Bagdogra which is 90 kilometers from Darjeeling.
The nearest railhead is Siliguri. The Toy train runs from New
Jalpaiguri/Siliguri. There are taxis available from Bagdogra, Siliguri and
New Jalpaiguri. If one has never been to Darjeeling and believes that real
holidaying lies in the enjoyment of experience, then one should take the
mini train from New Jalpaiguri. Completed way back in 1881 by Franklin
Prestage, the mini train is the best way of traveling to the old Gurkha
station of Darjeeling.
WHERE TO STAY Hotels
abound in Darjeeling. Besides the International Youth Hostel, there are more
recently opened resorts as well. There is a hotel which boasts as the place
where Jinnah met his wife whom he courted and married soon after. Many of
the old villas and estates that passed into Indian hands once the British
left have been converted into hotels. Hotel Shangrila which is built along
the main promenade, Chowrasta, is typical of the traditional pagoda style
architecture. It also houses a travel and trekking agency.
