OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
Compared to
other hill stations, Dalhousie, 80 winding kilometers from Pathankot, is
markedly different and off the beaten track. Spread over five hills,
Dalhousie has a serenity with its own distinctive flavor. Attractive
cottages and villas cling to the deodar and pine mantled hills of Dalhousie.
Here at Dalhousie, nothing seems to matter except the beauty and the moment.
Pink and red rhododendrons are in bloom. The trees are dressed in different
shades of green. There is no swirl of traffic. The shops are small and trim.
Whistling softly to himself, a shopkeeper arranges embroidered Chamba shawls
in his showcase. Tourists appraise Chamba chappals embroidered with gold
thread, cane baskets, colorful woolens, and life-like Chamba dolls —
all specialties of the region. Piles of walnuts and red, black and green
Chamba chilies adorn many shop fronts. We pass children joyfully picking
strawberries from a hillside decorated with alpine flowers.
HISTORY
OF DALHOUSIE
In 1851, the princely state of Chamba was approached by
Lord Napier of Magdala. The British wished to establish a sanatorium for
Europeans on the outer slopes of the Dhauladhar range. There, the sun shone
warmly on scented forests of pine and oak, the air was crisp and
invigorating, the scenery beautiful. Negotiations were carried on with the
Raja of Chamba and in 1853, the plateau of Kathlog, Portreyn, Tehra and
Bakrota were transferred to the Government of India against a compensation
of Rs. 2000 to be paid as an annual tribute to Chamba state. On the
recommendation of Sir Donald McLeod, the new sanatorium was named Dalhousie,
after Lord Dalhousie, the first British Governor General of India. In 1866,
the cantonment area of Balun was also taken over and remains a cantonment to
this day.
BEST TIME TO VISIT
Lined
against the railings, several people admire the exquisite views that are a
special feature of Dalhousie. The clouds come skimming down and dally
amongst the mountains for a moment. The next moment, they begin playing hide
and seek with the Dhauladhars, changing the shape of the skyline with
astonishing rapidity. Soaring up to 21,000 feet, the Dhauladhars themselves
are constantly changing color – smoky blue, gray green, orchid blue,
violet. On the nearer hill slopes, every tree stands distinct and green and
lordly. In the valley below, the rice fields glint in the sunshine.
DALHOUSIE
SIGHTSEEING
Though spread over five distinct hills – Kathlog,
Portreyn, Tehra, Bakrota and Balun, covering an area of 13 sq km – the
main center continues to be at Portreyn. The Figure of Eight of Portreyn is
the most popular walk in Dalhousie. Starting from the Portreyn Mall, it
crosses the meeting places of Subhash Chowk and Gandhi Chowk. Along the
rocks on the way, Tibetans have carved colorful pictures in relief.
One
of the best views of the glorious surroundings of Dalhousie can be obtained
from Kalatope, 8 km from the center of Dalhousie. At Panchpulla (Five
Bridges) – a good spot for picnics – can, if one is lucky to run
into an old Dalhousie resident, be heard interesting snippets that
intertwine India’s freedom struggle with Dalhousie. Satdhara has long
been known for its mineral water which was once shipped to England on a
regular basis. Dalhousie also has Dainkund – the Singing Hill. The
passage of mountain winds through the forest at Dainkund produces a series
of effects – depending on the wind’s velocity – ranging from
a gentle humming to an eerie wail.
HOW TO REACH
The nearest railhead is Pathankot, 80 kilometers downhill. Buses
and taxis ply regularly from Pathankot to Dalhousie. Hotels at Dalhousie are
mostly below Rs. 700. These include the classy hotels, the Himachal Pradesh
Tourism Corporation’s Tourist Bungalow, and a Youth Hostel.
